Brooks Brothers 30's stroller semi-formal suit MST6
Condition: Very good
Price: $125
Measurements
JACKET
Chest: 38-40”
Length: 30”
Shoulder seam-to-seam: 16.5”
Sleeve length: 23.5” from shoulder (32.5” men’s measuring)
TROUSERS
Waist: 34”
Outseam: 40”
Inseam: 25” (add 3” for the extra long 13” rise, fit like a 28” inseam, with another 3” in the hem)
Label: Brooks Brothers Makers, Established 1818
Description
This c. 1930’s Brooks Brothers suit with its dark grey wool jacket and striped wool trousers may remind you of something: the “morning suit” typically worn now only at weddings in the U.S. However, the non-cutaway jacket tells us that this is not a morning jacket ensemble at all, but rather a different menswear item, largely abandoned by modern Americans, called a “stroller.” According to Wikipedia, “The stroller is a form of men's semi-daytime dress comprising a single-breasted or double-breasted, one- or two-button, peaked-lapel coat (grey or black), grey striped or checked trousers, a necktie (grey or silver), and a waistcoat (dove grey, funeral black, or buff). This makes it largely identical to the formal morning dress from which it is derived, with the exception of the differing coat (no tails) and the almost exclusive use of a necktie and turndown collar. The correct hat is a bowler or Homburg. The stroller is the semi-formal daytime equivalent of the semi-formal evening dress dinner jacket or tuxedo (black tie).” So now you know what it is you’re looking at, unless you’re a vintage formalwear buff, in which case you already knew! Although the label in the inner pocket of the jacket lets us know that the suit was last altered in 1966, its previous owner had probably had it since the 30’s, and just kept altering it as needed. The striped trousers have a 3-inch hem, and the traditional center seam in back for ease of alterations. Bear this in mind when checking the measurements, since men’s trousers are relatively easy to alter, but jackets are not so easy, except for the sleeve hems. The high quality charcoal wool coat has a half-lining of black satin, with striped sleeve linings, one of which is damaged at the shoulder (see photo). The trousers for a stroller or morning suit are traditionally not cuffed, as seen here, with pleats at the waist, and buttons for suspenders (or braces, as they are known outside the U.S.). The rise on the trousers is much longer than is usual today, making the inseam length longer than the actual measurement from crotch to hem. The suit is in great condition, and will last for many more years to come, a classic item of vintage formal wear.
