Description
This wintery-floral patterned, black silk velvet and gold lamé 1920s evening coat was made in Paris, like many of the loveliest garments from the glamorous Jazz Age! The subtly shimmering fabric making up the front half of the coat combines somewhat stiff, gold metallic and silk fibers with plush black silk velvet flower and leaf designs. Below the straight and narrow upper arms, the ¾-length sleeves have a pleated black velvet flounce from elbow to hem. The back half of the tubular-shaped coat is made of solid black silk velvet. A second, draped overlayer of velvet in back only, like half of a cape, is finished at its inner edges with gold lame ribbon where it overlaps the side seams of the layer underneath. A gathered panel at hip height on each side of this draped overlayer echoes the shape of the sleeve flounces. Both layers of the coat are fully lined in lustrous black silk satin. The coat’s only fastenings are 2 snaps and a hook and eye at the asymmetrical closure of the high, round neckline. The coat has an overall straight-up-and-down or tubular shape, underneath the looser, draped half-cape in back.
The fit is smallest at the shoulders and upper arms, since the overlapping opening in front and intended loose silhouette allow for some leeway in fit elsewhere. That said, the coat was a bit too small for me (at size 4-6 petite) in the upper arms over long-sleeved clothing--although it might have fit better over a sleeveless dress. I would estimate that the coat will best fit a modern size XS to a S, with narrow shoulders and not too much in the way of bicep muscles!
In remarkable condition for its age—approximately 100 years old—the coat is wearable with reasonable care. The lining is completely intact and the outer fabrics appear sturdy, currently. It does however, have some issues to note. There are several small marks and/or tarnished areas to the lamé fabric (see close-up photos):
- A dark mark at the left front shoulder.
- A dark mark at the right elbow.
- A reddish mark (lipstick?) at the left side seam near the hem, pretty well hidden by the draped overlayer when the coat is worn.
The only other issue I can find is the way the silk lining is rolled over/visible at the front opening. I did not want to potentially damage the lamé fibers by forcibly pressing this flat, and it looks fine as it is, although probably not original to the design.
A Parisian-made 1920s evening coat with gorgeous details in very good condition, this special piece will be a wonderful addition to your collection of antique clothing!
Size: XS to possibly S, with smaller shoulders and upper arms.
- Bust: 41 inches flat, to fit loosely for up to 37 inches or smaller.
- Hip: 42 inches flat with some overlap in front, to fit up to 39 max.
- Length: 43 inches from back of neck to hem
- Underarm to hem: 34.5 inches.
- Sleeve: 22 inches.
- Shoulder to shoulder: 14 inches flat (XS).
- Shoulder to elbow seam length: 12 inches.
- Width at elbow seam: 10.5 inches flat (XS).
- Label: Jean 35 Avenue Des Champs-Elysées Paris
