This long ladies’ Edwardian jacket in black silk satin is lavishly trimmed with black guipure lace. Dating from the early 1900s, the jacket has extra long, flounced sleeves, probably designed to drape over a bishop-sleeved bodice. The lush black silk satin is textured with many tiny, vertical pintucks. Bands of lace are set into the sleeves at about elbow height, just above where they flare outward to the fingertip-length, lace-trimmed hems. A large black lace collar is draped over the shoulders of the jacket. This collar area is the only section of the jacket that still has a fine black silk lining, backing the lace, and covering some kind of wool shoulder padding—visible behind the damaged silk backing. Elsewhere, the jacket was relined in purple polished cotton, which peeps through the corded lace trim. The purple and black combination would have been suitable for half-mourning, so it may have been re-lined during the era when this custom of mourning clothing was still considered appropriate, especially for an older person. There is no way to tell for sure exactly when the jacket was relined, but it was nicely done, and the purple fabric feels antique or early vintage to me--certainly not modern. The loose-fitting design would might have been intended for at-home wear, perhaps over one of the less-structured/un-corseted “tea gowns” that were popular in the era.
The unstructured shape of the jacket and its slightly padded shoulders somewhat disguise its true size, so I tried it on to get a better idea of fit. It did fit over my modern size 4-6 petite shoulders just fine, with some overlap in front, but without a lot of room to spare in the shoulder area. The waist and hips are quite full, with the shoulders being the most fitted area—see measurements below, for more details. I am going to say that it would be best for a modern size XS or maybe a size small with tiny shoulders. In good condition, the jacket has the above-mentioned damage to the black silk backing the lace at the shoulders and collar (see close-up photos), a few marks on the purple lining from its long storage, and some breaks in the guipure lace. The 2 largest--and the only really noticeable--breaks in the lace trim are one at the right side of the center front opening and another at the lower left front hem (see close-up photo). These would likely be repairable, by someone who knows how to work with vintage lace. There is also one small hole in the left sleeve, just above the lace trim at its hem (see photo). Of course, as with all truly antique garments, this lovely Edwardian silk jacket will last much longer if not worn—although it is sturdy enough for display, or perhaps very careful wearing.
Size: XS
Bust: approx. 40” flat with some overlap in front, but designed for a loose fit
Waist: full
Hip: full
Length: 36” from shoulder to hem in front
Back of neck to hem length: 36”
Underarm to hem length: 27”
Sleeve length: 26.5”
Shoulder to shoulder: 13” (XS)
Label: none
