Bias-cut black velvet cream lace late 1930s cocktail dress deadstock S-M

This bias cut, black rayon velvet late 1930s cocktail dress features lovely ecru Venetian-style sheer lace on its upper bodice, puffed short sleeves, and sheer upper back sections. The sweetheart neckline has ruching at its center seam, to add subtle draping to the bust area. The slinky, lightweight rayon drapes over the body beautifully, flaring gently outward from the waist (waist seam present in back, only) to the mid-calf-length skirt hem.  Both the rayon velvet and sheer lace are unlined, except for the small “horsehair” shoulder lifts at the top of the puffed sleeves. The dress fastens with a side seam metal zipper and has tiny snaps and loops for securing slip or bra straps. The self-fabric belt is backed with black leather, and has its original size sticker still attached. I prefer the shape of the dress unbelted, personally, but I have shown it both with and without, for reference.

The dress is labeled “Martha Weathered”, originally purchased from her high-end boutique located on Michigan Avenue, here in Chicago (open from 1921 to 1971). Her shop was one of only 2 in Chicago authorized by French designers to import their design concepts for local fabrication (label info courtesy of the Vintage Fashion Guild’s Label Resource).

I suspect that this late 1930s dress is deadstock, or unworn—a fabulous find! It is in very good condition, appearing unworn. The black velvet fabric has faded just slightly to off-black, with age. This is not really noticeable except under a very strong light. There is also one area on the sheer back bodice where there might be a small break in the elaborate lace (see close-up photo). I am not totally sure that this is a break, rather than a variation in the lace pattern, but think it is worth mentioning. Otherwise, this 1930s cocktail dress looks great and is sturdy and ready to wear.

Size: approx. modern S to M.

• Bust: 38 inches flat, to fit up to 37 max.
• Waist: 31 inches flat, to fit up 30 max.
• Hips: 45 inches flat, to fit very loosely up to 40 inches.
• Length: 48 inches from shoulder to hem in front.
• Back of neck to waist seam: 16 inches.
• Shoulder to shoulder: 13.5 to 14 inches flat.
• Sleeve length: 9 inches.
• Sleeve opening at bicep: 11 inches flat.
• Sweep/skirt width at hem: 84 inches flat (semi-full).
• Belt size: 27.5 to 30 inches, with current holes.
• Label: Martha Weathered Chicago