Description
This late 1910s, WWI-era ladies’ black suit jacket is almost certainly the top half of a “walking suit”. Walking suits were stylish yet practical garments for wearing outside of the house, designed with the more independent--and even sporty--lady of the newly minted 20th century in mind! This suit jacket is made of crisp, mid-weight ribbed black faille fabric in a blend of wool and silk. It is intended to have a somewhat loose fit through the body, including at the waist, as shown. Topstitching outlines the trompe l’oeil pocket panels at the waist and the appliquéd bands at the lower sleeves. 2 small knife pleats extend downward on each side from the faux pocket appliqués to the front hem. In back, 2 larger inverted pleats extend from the appliquéd waistband panel to the hem, adding a bit of volume and movement. This back waist panel is trimmed with faux buttonholes made of cord and 5 small, silk-covered buttons, along with 2 embroidered arrows at each end. 2 more of these small buttons trim the sleeve cuffs. 5 larger versions of these black silk thread-covered buttons close the jacket in front and 4 decorative ones trim the faux pocket panels. The buttons are quite lovely little works of art! The full-length sleeves are slightly curved, with tiny gathers at each shoulder to create a very subtle puffed shape.
The jacket is fully lined with black silk satin, which sadly has seen better days. It is very frayed at the inside of the sleeve cuffs and the shoulders, and has come loose at the underarm seams. None of this lining damage is seen when the jacket is worn, however. (It could be removed and replaced, if you are handy that way.) In good condition, quite wearable, and sturdy aside from the damaged lining, this 1910s women’s jacket has only one other issue to note: some wear to several of the smaller silk floss-covered buttons at the back waist (see close-up photo). The jacket was recently drycleaned, but I would not recommend doing this again—certainly not until (or unless) the lining is replaced. The sporty, tailored style of this 1910s black wool and silk jacket reminds me of suffragettes, and other WWI-era ladies who meant business!
Size: approx. modern XS or vintage S, with smallest fit at bust and shoulders.
- Bust: 36 inches flat, best fit for 32B-C or 34A at max.
- Waist: 35 inches flat, to fit very loosely for up to 31 inches.
- Hips: 42 inches flat, to fit very loosely for up to 39 inches.
- Length: 26 inches from shoulder to hem in front.
- Underarm to hem: 19 inches.
- Underarm to pockets/back waist panel: 7 inches to middle (just slightly high-waisted or petite).
- Shoulder to shoulder: 13.5 inches (XS).
- Sleeve length: 22.5 inches.
- Sleeve width at bicep: 13 inches flat.
- Sweep/skirt width at hem: 44 inches flat.
- Label: none present.
